The Bluff
Most end of the world places, in my experience, live up to their name, and seem not just at the end of the world, but lost somewhere, beyond all hope. The Bluff beckons with the same dismal prospect as you drive south out of Invervcargill, reflecting perhaps on the surprisingly interesting archuitecture of the town, which no-one even seems to mention, and across the bleak plain towards the distant industrial belt. When you reach Bluff, itself, hopes don't rise much. Beyond the tin roofs of the wharehouses, the gantries and containers and oil storage tanks, the town has a tired and neglected look. There's history here, but no-one seems proud of it or to care to any extent. The rather fine frontage of Bluff Lodge is spoiled by its tatty neighbours. The houses are rusted and sagging.
Continue along the rather grandly names Marine Parade, to the end of State Highway 1, and the scenery still fails to charm: a stern vista across a grey sea; a bright yellow signpost, pointing to all the places that you can can't see from here - Dog Island, Ruapuke, Sydney, The Equator; a curving, bush-clads slope, rather like the paw of some huge creature reaching for the water. But take the footpath from the right-hand end of the carpark and the mood changes. The path curves around the headland, leading you on. There are side-tracks leading off, upwards to the right. Below, the sea slops and slurps against the rocks. Terns and seagulls wheel and scream.
It's a round trip, either by continuing on the Foveaux walkway around the headland, from where you can see Stewart Island on a good day, or the shorter way by following the Glory Path up to gun emplacement. Either way the evegetation is interesting and changes from wind-carved coatsal shrubs through rimu and miro and rata and beech as you ascend. There's bits of history to see as well, some of it supported by useful information boards. As the end of the Te Araroa Trail, Bluff must come as a bit of a disappointment as well as a relief. But for an hour or so's walk with the dogs, it's a pleasant spot.
Continue along the rather grandly names Marine Parade, to the end of State Highway 1, and the scenery still fails to charm: a stern vista across a grey sea; a bright yellow signpost, pointing to all the places that you can can't see from here - Dog Island, Ruapuke, Sydney, The Equator; a curving, bush-clads slope, rather like the paw of some huge creature reaching for the water. But take the footpath from the right-hand end of the carpark and the mood changes. The path curves around the headland, leading you on. There are side-tracks leading off, upwards to the right. Below, the sea slops and slurps against the rocks. Terns and seagulls wheel and scream.
It's a round trip, either by continuing on the Foveaux walkway around the headland, from where you can see Stewart Island on a good day, or the shorter way by following the Glory Path up to gun emplacement. Either way the evegetation is interesting and changes from wind-carved coatsal shrubs through rimu and miro and rata and beech as you ascend. There's bits of history to see as well, some of it supported by useful information boards. As the end of the Te Araroa Trail, Bluff must come as a bit of a disappointment as well as a relief. But for an hour or so's walk with the dogs, it's a pleasant spot.
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